Retinol is one of the few skincare ingredients that dermatologists almost all agree on. It's been studied for decades and is one of the best-proven ingredients for fine lines, uneven texture and dullness. It also has a reputation for making skin red, flaky and grumpy, which puts a lot of people off before they even start.
The trick is simple: start low and go slow. Here's exactly how to do that.
What is retinol and what does it do?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Once it's on your skin, it's converted into retinoic acid, which tells skin cells to renew themselves faster. Over time, that can help with:
- the look of fine lines and wrinkles
- rough or uneven texture
- dullness and uneven tone
- clogged-looking pores
It isn't quick. Most people need 8 to 12 weeks of regular use to see a clear difference. That's normal, so don't give up after a fortnight.
Why retinol can irritate at first
When you first start, your skin has to get used to the faster turnover. In the first few weeks some people get mild dryness, tightness, flaking or a bit of redness. This adjustment period is sometimes called "retinisation", and it usually settles within 2 to 6 weeks.
The goal is to keep that phase as mild as possible, and that's all about how you introduce it.
How to start retinol without irritation
1. Choose a gentle strength
Higher isn't better when you're new. A low concentration like 0.1% is a sensible starting point. Our Retinol Eye Cream & Serum both use 0.1% retinol, with 1% panthenol and peptides to help keep skin comfortable.
2. Use it 2 to 3 nights a week
Don't jump straight to every night. Start with two or three non-consecutive nights (for example Monday, Wednesday and Friday). After a few weeks, if your skin is happy, add another night. Work up slowly.
3. Use a small amount
A pea-sized amount is enough for your whole face. For the eye cream, a rice-sized amount for both eyes. More product doesn't mean faster results; it just means more irritation.
4. Apply it to completely dry skin
Wait 10 to 15 minutes after cleansing before applying. Damp skin lets retinol absorb more quickly, which sounds good but tends to cause more irritation.
5. Try the "sandwich" method if you're sensitive
Apply a thin layer of moisturiser, then your retinol, then another layer of moisturiser. This buffers it and is one of the easiest ways to avoid a reaction. A light gel-cream like our PDRN Collagen Jelly Cream works well here.
6. Wear SPF every single morning
Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, and sun exposure undoes the work it's doing. SPF 30 or higher, every day, even in winter.
A simple beginner's retinol routine
Retinol nights (2–3 times a week)
- Gentle cleanser
- Wait until skin is fully dry
- Pea-sized amount of retinol serum, plus eye cream if you're using it
- Moisturiser
Other nights
- Gentle cleanser
- A hydrating serum, like the PDRN Peptide Serum
- Moisturiser
Your "off" nights are a good time for a hydrating mask. Just don't use a collagen gel mask and retinol on the same evening.
What not to mix with retinol (at first)
- Exfoliating acids (AHAs like glycolic or BHAs like salicylic). Use them on different nights.
- Benzoyl peroxide, unless your doctor has advised it.
- Scrubs and harsh cleansers. Your skin will already be renewing faster.
Hydrating and soothing ingredients are fine: niacinamide, peptides, panthenol, ceramides and PDRN all pair well with it.
What to do if your skin reacts
A bit of dryness or light flaking is normal. If it happens, cut back to once or twice a week and use more moisturiser. If your skin stings, burns or becomes very red, stop for a few days, let it recover, then restart less often.
If the irritation is severe or doesn't settle, stop using it and speak to a pharmacist or GP.
Who should avoid retinol?
- If you're pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, don't use retinol.
- If you have eczema, rosacea or very reactive skin, check with a dermatologist first.
- Avoid using it on broken, sunburnt or freshly waxed skin.
And as with any new product, patch test on a small area first.
Retinol around the eyes
The skin around your eyes is thinner, so it needs extra care. Use a formula made for the eye area, apply it along the orbital bone (not on your eyelids or too close to your lash line), and start even more slowly than you would on the rest of your face. Our Retinol Eye Cream is designed for exactly that.
The bottom line
Retinol is worth it, but only if you can keep using it. Start with a low strength, a small amount and a few nights a week, protect your skin with moisturiser and SPF, and give it time. In a couple of months, you'll be glad you didn't rush.
Want to keep your routine simple around retinol? Read Glass skin routine: 2 steps instead of 10.
This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. If you have a skin condition or are unsure whether retinol is right for you, speak to a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist.